After the immense (and very unexpected) popularity of my original No Seam Shrug Free Crochet Pattern, I have had numerous requests to design another shrug that was at least similar to the first one, because a. I designed the first one before my blogging days, so I didn’t have step-by-step pictures and some of the concepts of how the shrug was “put together” confused some; and b. the first shrug is very heavy and some wanted a lighter shrug using worsted weight yarn.
I hope it was worth the wait! The yarn is worsted weight and much different from the yarn I used for the original pattern, though the colors are very similar. I realize now I should have done it in different colors, but I really seem to have a thing for seaside colors. Oh well- it’s not like you can’t use different colors just because I can’t.
This is, as always, a free pattern. It is a size medium in misses. I’ve included some ideas on how to make the shrug smaller or larger at the end of the pattern. The sleeve is a 3/4 sleeve on me, but I do have ape arms so keep that in mind. I’ve added how to increase or decrease the arm length the end of the pattern as well. I’ve also added the step-by-step pictures to try to convey some of the more abstract concepts of the pattern. Please note if the direction I’m working in the pictures seems jacked up, it’s because I crochet left-handed. Don’t pay so much attention to the direction as to the concept of what the picture shows.
Measurements of the shrug pictured that I made using this pattern:
Sleeve: 21 inches (from shoulder to end of sleeve)
Back Panel: 11 inches (the “Back” part in the instructions)
Back: 18 inches (measured between armpits)
Top of the neck to bottom of the back: 17 inches
PLEASE NOTE these measurements will vary depending on your gauge and if you use a different yarn.
Lightweight No Seam Shrug Free Crochet Pattern
Crochet Hook size N/15 10mm
3 Skeins Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable in Tidal where to buy
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Please note: The notation in parentheses at the end of each line of directions is simply a count of how many stitches you should have at the end of working that particular line of directions to help you keep track of your stitch count.
Gauge: 8 double crochet = 4 inches and 6 rows of double crochet = 4 inches. Use whatever size crochet hook needed to achieve this gauge. For best results, please check your gauge before beginning this pattern.
Chain 37 stitches; join ends with slip stitch forming a loop (36 stitches).
Round 1: double crochet around round, join with slip stitch (36 stitches).
Rounds 2-10: double crochet 1, decrease 1 double crochet, double crochet around round to last stitch, decrease 1 double crochet (18 stitches at the end of row 10).
Rounds 11-12: double crochet around round (18 stitches at the end of row 10).
Rounds 13-20: increase 1 double crochet, double crochet around round (26 stitches at the end of row 20).
Rounds 21-30: double crochet 1, increase 1 double crochet, double crochet around round to last stitch, increase 1 double crochet (46 stitches at the end of row 30).
Rows 1-15: chain 3, turn, double crochet 22 stitches (23 stitches). When you start the back, you will begin working off the sleeve you just finished in rows and turning your work instead of working in rounds and not turning your work. Make sure you start the first row on the bottom of the back (armpit) and end the last row at the top of the back.
Chain 24 off the top of the back. Join chain to the bottom of the back with a slip stitch to form the round for the sleeve.
Rounds 1-10: double crochet 1, decrease 1 double crochet, double crochet around round to last stitch, decrease 1 double crochet (26 stitches at the end of row 10).
Rounds 11-18: decrease 1 double crochet, double crochet around round (18 stitches at the end of row 18).
Rounds 19-20: double crochet around round (18 stitches at the end of row 20).
Rounds 21-30: double crochet 1, increase 1 double crochet, double crochet around round to last stitch, increase 1 double crochet (36 stitches at the end of row 30). Cut yarn, tie off and weave in ends.
Join yarn on bottom of back; double crochet 8 rows around. You will work from the bottom of the back up one sleeve, across the top of the back (neck), down the other sleeve, and back across to where you started. Once you’ve completed 8 rounds by doing this, cut yarn, tie off and weave in ends.
Ideas to make this shrug smaller (XS-S):
Follow the pattern as written, but use a smaller hook. The weave will be a little tighter if you do it this way.
Use the same hook size but start the pattern with 2-4 stitches less, then follow the pattern as it’s written as far as increasing/decreasing, but it will be 2-4 stitches less than shown all around (stitch counts at the end should be 2-4 stitches less than shown). Also, remove the last 2-4 rows on the first sleeve and the first 2-4 rows on the second sleeve, and 2 rows across the back.
Ideas to make this shrug larger (L-XL):
Follow the pattern as written, but use a larger hook. The weave will be a little looser if you do it this way.
Add 2-4 rows to the back, 2-4 more rounds to the front, and 2-4 more stitches to the sleeve rounds.
To make the sleeves shorter: remove rounds 11-12 in sleeve 1 and rounds 19-20 in sleeve 2.
To make the sleeves longer: add rounds as needed between rounds 11-12 in sleeve 1 and rounds 19-20 in sleeve 2 using the same stitch count (18).
Here’s the step-by-step breakdown. The pictures show the pattern being worked from left to right because I am left handed. This pattern is symmetrical, so it can be worked either left to right or right to left and achieve the same results.This is the first few rounds on the first sleeve. You will be decreasing to create the flair on the bottom.
Don’t forget to check out my other free crochet patterns!